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Posted 3/8/2008 in All Weblog Posts | Saws

Tenon saws are one of the three essential backsaws for building furniture (the other two are the carcase saw and the dovetail saw), but until recently your choices were limited to:

1. A vintage tenon saw that you resurrected from the dead
2. A Japanese saw that may or may not be suited to cutting tenons
3. The excellent Lie-Nielsen tenon saw
4. Some other frustrating new English-named saw.

A couple years ago, sawmaker Mike Wenzloff started making tenon saws, including my freakishly huge Kenyon-style tenon saw that I have waxed on about so endlessly that you’d think that Mike must be washing and waxing my car every weekend. (He’s not, though he’s offered; it’s a long drive from Oregon to Cincinnati.)

And now Wenzloff, his sons, his lovely spouse and probably the family dog all make thousands of Western saws for Lee Valley Tools. It’s a lot of work for the Wenzloff family, I know, but it’s an absolute boon to woodworkers because now we have more choices in the marketplace. (Also, as noted in the comments, I don't own an Adria tenon saw, another new premium brand. I've used the Adria carcase and dovetail saws and they are good. I have no reason to suspect the tenon is any different.)

At issue here is not which brand of saw cuts better tenons. That point is honestly and truly moot. Both the Lie-Nielsen and Wenzloff brands come sharp, accurately filed and well-set. They both cut well once the saw has been broken in with some work and wax.

Instead, what’s important is the handle of the saw and the number of teeth. These factors will help you determine which saw is right for you. I’ve had a Lie-Nielsen tenon saw since the day the company started making them. I’ve had the Kenyon tenon saw for a couple years, and two weeks ago I ordered the Wenzloff Large Tenon Saw from Lee Valley. After a weekend of breaking in the new saw during a sawing class at Kelly Mehler’s School of Woodworking, I have a good feel for the Wenzloff tool and how is compares to the Lie-Nielsen version and the Kenyon tenon saw.

Let’s start with the teeth: The Kenyon tenon saw sold today is 10 points per inch (ppi). On my unit, Wenzloff filed the first couple inches with progressive rake. These few extra degrees of rake in the starting teeth make the saw easier to start, though not as easy as a progressive-pitch saw. Wenzloff says he'll add this rake (no more than 4°) to custom saws by request.

The Wenzloff & Sons Large Tenon Saw has 12 ppi. And the Lie-Nielsen has 10 ppi.

I was surprised how the difference in the number of teeth made a difference in the tool's cutting speed. The Kenyon tenon saw was the fastest because it was the longest, heaviest and (tied for) coarsest. The Lie-Nielsen was the second fastest, and the Wenzloff Large Tenon was a bit slower.

I prefer fast and coarse saws, but not everyone does. Beginners like finer saws, and people who do work in thin stock really like finer saws. So don’t judge a saw on its speed. It’s not a race. But if you work with thick stock, think coarse. Thin stock? Think fine.

The handles are also different. The Kenyon tenon saw has the most curves and feels more “made by hand” than the other saws. But the Lie-Nielsen is the most comfortable handle to my hand overall. I’m told that I have “girl hands,” but these girl hands seem to like slightly larger saw totes.

The Wenzloff Large Tenon Saw has a tote that appears to have more hand work than the Lie-Nielsen. The flats on the sides of the tote have been well-faired into the curves, and I suspect it is a process done by hand or with an inflatable drum on a sanding machine.

The tote of this Wenzloff saw feels good in my hands, but it’s just a little on the small side for me.

The other differences are aesthetic. The Lie-Nielsen comes stock with a maple handle (usually curly maple) and it looks like a 19th-century Disston. The Kenyon tenon saw is traditional European beech and reeks of the late 18th-century aesthetic. The Wenzloff Large Tenon Saw is bubinga, which matches Lee Valley’s house line of Veritas planes, and looks quite old school.

If you’ve read this far, you probably feel like I owe you a solid recommendation. I’m going to let you down. I’m delighted with all three saws and wouldn’t sell a single one. (Yes, Scott, I’m talking to you.) But what delights me even more is that we have a choice about what to buy. Not as many choices as the 1808 furniture-maker, but it’s a start.

— Christopher Schwarz

3/8/2008 9:44:51 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
Wow Chris, way to ignore the excellent Adria Tenon saw...

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-ADRIAFS.XX&Category_Code=CAD

I'm sure it was just an oversight on your part.

I have both the Adria and LN Carcass saws and I like the Adria a bit better. I can't imagine the Adria Tenon saw is not worthy of being on that list.

3/8/2008 11:33:46 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-04:00)

I don't own the saw so I cannot speak to it.

Sorry for the oversight, It is budget-dependent, I assure you.

Chris
3/9/2008 2:53:36 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
Chris,

I'm assuming you own several tenon saws. For the single tenon saw shop though, would you recommend a conventional 12-14 incher or the freakishly huge variety?
Brad
3/9/2008 7:56:55 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)

Brad,

If I could have only one tenon saw (shudder), I would get a 14" model with 10 ppi that fit my hand. That is what my head tells me to tell other woodworkers.

My heart is with the 19" saw and is what I want to use most often.

Chris
3/9/2008 10:07:34 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
I too was surprised at the Adria omission. Eddie Sirotich makes both quality dovetail and tenon (rip) saws. I can't recommend them enough. Perhaps you could conduct a tenon and dovetail saw review for Woodworking Magazine?

One issue that I wonder if you would address is whether when cutting tenons you (and everyone else) actually put down your (their) tenon saw (filed rip according to your classification), and uses their carcase saws to cross cut the shoulders? While I understand the differences between the two tooth types (and have filed them myself in panel saws), I don't see a practical difference in my furniture making. The exception to this, of course, would be when I'm in a hurry and don't carefully control the saw at the conclusion of the cut causing the off-cut to break off rather then be sheared cleanly. However, this can happen with any saw no matter the type.

Maybe this is simply because I'm using a quality saw?
3/9/2008 10:44:22 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)

John,

I tested a dovetail and carcase saw from Adria when Eddie first started making them. I've never owned his tenon saw, though I've used ones owned by my students. They are indeed excellent saws. I have nothing bad to say about them, and they now look even better than when I bought mine.

As to your question of shoulders, I definitely use a carcase saw and a first-class sawcut to make the shoulder. It's the show surface and is critical. You can use a rip saw for that cut -- it just takes more skill.

Chris
3/10/2008 12:58:42 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
I got an Adria dovetail saw several years ago but I found it didn't cut as smoothly as the rip-cut dozuki I had from Lee Valley. It tends to catch every so often. As a result, I haven't used it much. Am I missing something? (Would it improve if I used it a bunch?)
3/10/2008 3:24:50 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)

Adrian,

Absolutely. Using the tool will break it in. Wax the teeth with paraffin.

And if you still don't like it, we'll buy it of you. I should get one in-house so I am better educated.

Chris
3/11/2008 1:29:16 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
Chris -

I'm currently in the middle of tuning several saws. I'm starting to get a bit perplexed, puzzled on what I should do with the saws - i.e., what I should turn them into. In addition to a couple 10" gent's saws (one I've filed rip, one crosscut), I have three old Disstons: a 10", 12", and a 14". They're currently filed crosscut, and are not without minor issues, but I think they'll make decent users once tuned. I am also interested in a buying a good saw or two to compliment and contrast the old ones.

Here's what I'm thinking, as of now, based on comments you made above with regard to the use of a finer carcase saw on the important shoulder line: I should file the above saws to rip instead of crosscut, because the cut they make will rarely be seen (I may be missing something here?). I should acquire a good quality 10"- 12" carcase saw to complement the rip saws. Most seem to be 11", if I'm remembering correctly. Or, should I keep the 10" or 12" saw as a crosscut???

Oh brother...

Any feedback would be most appreciated!

Dorje


3/12/2008 11:43:16 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
The Adria saws are just crrrazy good. I'm sure none of these are bad options, and the handles on the Adria saws seem to me the most graceful of the lot.
3/13/2008 7:52:41 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)

Matt,

Thanks for the input. The handle is the most personal part of the tool, so being pleased with it is half the battle.

Chris
3/13/2008 8:56:18 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
Wow this post came at a perfect time for me, I have a LN dovetail saw now but was not sure what my next acquisition should be. I was not really clear on why I needed so many saws that do close to the same thing, this has helped clear that up. Thanks!


James
3/20/2008 4:38:43 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
I'll put in another plug for the Adria tenon saws. (just to get you even more worked up for not having one, Chris) It's very well made and the handle is quite comfortable.

Before I got this saw I had been using some of those little Japanese saws and this western-style saw, while not even his big tenon saw, seemed huge. I've since learned through experience that sometimes the larger saws are easier to keep straight. My Japanese saws are now sitting mostly idle on the shelves while I do most of my cutting with my (relatively) giant D-8 and Simmonds saws.

I'm getting to where I can cut pretty darn straight and level with a big saw. The better I get, the more I can understand how St. Roy (Underhill) can saw dovetails with them, which used to freak me out.

Andrew
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